Breakouts & Acne

Acne causes

The skin has thousands of tiny hair follicles. Each has a sebaceous gland that produces an oily substance, sebum. An abnormal reaction of the sebaceous glands in the skin to the male hormone testosterone causes them to make more sebum. This characteristically occurs at puberty when production of hormones including testosterone increases in both boys and girls. Hormonal changes also cause the cells of the top layer of skin (the epidermis) to overgrow, forming a thicker layer which can block the outflow of sebum from the glands.

As a result of overproduction of sebum and obstruction of its flow, the sebaceous glands become enlarged forming a pimple or spot.

The opening of the sebaceous gland is filled with a plug of sebum mixed with sloughed-off skin cells. These cells undergo a chemical reaction forming a black colour – a ’blackhead’ (which is therefore skin pigment, not dirt). At this point careful squeezing can push out the blackhead or pigmented sebum plug and let the spot drain (and so settle down).

In some spots the opening of the gland is so tiny that air cannot reach the sebum, so these spots don’t become blackheads but stay as whiteheads. These are more common and are likely to become red and inflamed, due to bacteria commonly found harmlessly on the skin surface which thrive on the sebum and multiply in the sebaceous gland, triggering an inflammatory reaction.

If the blocked hair follicle ruptures, inflammation can spread. This can lead to nodules and cysts forming, which leave scars as they disappear.

There’s no scientific basis to the idea that diet or particular foods make acne worse (for example, chocolate, fatty or fried foods), but some people do identify specific foods they believe make their acne worse.

Common triggers for acne include:

• Exams, new relationships and other forms of stress
• The time just before a period starts
• Pregnancy
• Certain cosmetics and medicines

Acne affects young adults the most, but can also be a problem for older people. It usually starts in puberty, between ages 12 and 14, when increased levels of the male-type sex hormones androgens (girls have these as well as boys) stimulate the sebaceous glands to increase production of sebum.

More than 90 per cent of teenagers have acne.

Women are generally affected at a younger age, the peak severity being between ages 17 and 18, while men peak between 19 and 20 years old. Men tend to be worst affected, because they produce more testosterone.

Acne symptoms

The main symptoms are spots that range from tiny, painless whiteheads to large, angry red cysts filled with sebum and pus. Scarring may leave discoloured pitting of the skin.

Acne appears most frequently on the face, but can also appear on the neck, behind the ears, on the chest and in the groin. Usually it’s a mild condition, but for 15 per cent of people it’s severe.

Acne treatments

There are two goals for treatment – to reduce the number of inflamed spots in order to prevent skin scarring and psychological distress, and to prevent new spots from forming. To achieve this, treatments aim to :

• Reduce inflammation
• Reduce sebum production
• Reduce the proliferation of skin cells
• Reduce levels of the bacteria propionibacterium acnes

The treatments used depend on the severity of the acne.

Healthy skin needs a good intake of vitamins A, C and E, zinc and at least eight glasses of water a day (all of us should do this whether or not we have spots).

It’s possible to gently squeeze blackheads and whiteheads to unblock the sebaceous glands but you should take care making sure your hands are clean and that you don’t exert too much pressure (there’s a risk that you will aggravate infection and damage the skin leading to worse scarring). If you are very aggressive with squeezing you may push infection and inflammatory chemicals deeper into the skin, making cysts and permanent scars more likely.

If someone only has a few spots occasionally, a medicated lotion or face wash that removes excess grease and cleanses the skin is all that’s needed. Gels, creams and lotions containing benzoyl peroxide are also helpful because the antibacterial and skin peeling actions help to reduce levels of bacteria and unblock skin pores.

Many complementary treatments that claim to treat acne work for some people but not others. Some of the more reliable ones are a facial gel mask of colloidal silicic acid (which should be used twice a day to remove excess grease and dead skin cells) and tea-tree oil gel, which has antiseptic and antibacterial effects.

Where spots are numerous and resistant to simple measures, and especially if the skin is very red and inflamed, antibiotic treatments may be more effective. These treatments may consist of a lotion which you apply to the spots, or a course of tablets. But you need to persist as it sometimes takes up to eight weeks for any noticeable improvement and the treatment is usually needed for at least six months.

While antibiotics can target the bacteria that cause spots to become red and inflamed, they do not affect the underlying process which causes spots to form in the first place.

Another effective treatment consists of chemical derivatives of vitamin A called retinoids. These chemicals, which are applied onto the skin surface not only reduce inflammation but also reduce the increase of cells, so helping to prevent new spots from forming as well as treating current spots.

Most treatments prescribed by doctors for acne consist of a combination of benzyl peroxide, antibiotics and retinoids, as well as other chemicals that may help such as zinc.

Some people with severe forms of scarring acne need more powerful medicines which should only be used under the guidance of hospital skin specialists and laser therapy to reduce the scars.

For a skincare consultation and advice on acne book in for our FREE Face Mapping Treatment and take home product samples perfect for your skin.

Thank you to the BBC Health website for this article

Is acne a prevalent pang of adolescence, or a life-long skin health challenge? Turns out it can be both.

While acne is associated with teenage years filled with raging hormones and the struggle for social acceptance, many adults are finding themselves caught in the middle of an acne epidemic. Skin care professionals and dermatologists alike are also reporting adult acne is on the rise.

Clinical studies indicate between 40 and 55 percent of the adult population in the 20 to 40 age group has been diagnosed with low grade, persistent acne and oily skin, with the primary catalyst identified as chronic stress.

Balancing personal and professional responsibilities makes this generation of adults the most time-compressed generation in history, which contributes to chronic stress: the constant, continued and heightened level of stress that throws our adrenal glands into overdrive, which in turn can boost sebum production, setting the stage for acne development.

Once there’s a boost in sebum production, the cascade of events leading to breakouts begins: oil spills onto skin’s surface and acts as a binder, creating a mixture of oil and cells that blocks oxygen from entering the pores. The lack of oxygen creates the ultimate breeding ground for bacteria, which leads to the swelling, redness, and inflammation around the follicle, resulting in acne.

Adult cases of acne are often more persistent and more inflammatory than teenage cases. Adult acne is also often accompanied by skin sensitization, or a combination of skin conditions, which makes treatment more challenging. To successfully treat, clear and prevent acne, the cascade of events leading to acne development must be controlled; but don’t turn to popular teen-centric treatments that may be too harsh and irritating.

MediBac Clearing™ by Dermalogica at Renaissance is the answer to the adult acne epidemic. To learn more about this twenty-four hour treatment system formulated specifically to treat, clear and prevent adult acne, visit your professional skin therapist in salon for your Face Mapping® skin analysis and customized product prescription.

Acnegenic ingredients to avoid in your skin care

You may have heard of comedogenic ingredients that cause or promote comedones in skin. You may not be as familiar with acnegenic ingredients – those that cause or exacerbate acne. These common ingredients can be hiding within acne treatment products, causing ineffective treatment of your breakouts. Here’s what to look for:

Lanolin: Derived from the words “lana” for wool and “oleum” for oil, Lanolin is a fatty substance obtained from the sheep’s wool.  While it’s a known emollient with moisturizing properties, it can have skin-clogging capabilities, triggering the cycle of breakouts.

Fragrance: Artificial fragrances can increase acne infection, skin sensitization and photosensitivity.

D & C red pigments: Some of these dyes, which are coal tar derivatives, have exhibited highly comedogenic and acnegenic properties.

Mineral Oil: Mineral Oil is an occlusive (something that physically blocks water loss in the Stratum corneum).  It’s used in many products, however, has been shown to cause and exacerbate acne.
Speak with your professional skin therapist at Renaissance about products free of comedogenic and acnegenic ingredients, and that contain known botanical extracts that help inhibit the growth of acnegenic bacteria.

Is your STRESS written all over your face?

Famous for making necks tight, heads ache and stomachs upset, stress is becoming a recognised trigger to redness, itching, burning and flare-ups commonly classified as skin sensitization.  And it’s a growing phenomenon: the American Academy of Dermatology reports up to 50% of the U.S. polpulation experience some form of sensitive skin.

What happens on the surface is stemming from a biological reaction in the body: inflammation.  Inflammation is the immune system’s (Immunogenic) response to infection and foreigh invadors.  Just as irritating chemicals and excess exfoliation can trigger inflammation and red, stinging, itching skin, researchers recognise neurogenic inflammation (stemming from the nervous system) is also triggered by emptional and physical stress.  It yields the same red, stinging, itching response, and could even be responsible for severe skin disorders including psoriasis, rosacea and atopic dermatitis.

COOL DOWN

Stress casues a litany of health issues, and now you know even skin can be affected.  When your blood pressure rises along with your temper, try these simple techniques to fend off stress – and a potential skin flare up!

• Regain your focus – simply shutting your eyes takes your source of frustraion out of sight.
• Walk it off – physically burning through the adrenaline can prevent stress from manifesting into tension in your neck, mind or skin.
• Drop it – are your shoulders up around your ears?  Is your jaw clenched?  Roll your shoulders back down your spine and drop your jaw; just focusing on correcting these things can smooth out your thoughts.
• Don’t be shallow – stress causes short, shallow breaths from the chest.  take some deep breaths to bring adrenal levels down; sit down, put your hand on you belly, breathe in through your nose and feel your belly rise before exhaling.

The origin of Glycolic Acid

Glycolic acid belongs to a class of substances calles alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), commonly called “fruit acids”.  It occurs naturally in sugar cane.  The use of AHAs to improve the appearance of the skin dates back to Egyptian and Roman times.  In 1974 the eminent US medical researcher and dermatologist, Dr Eugene van Scott, published the first scientific paper about the benifitss of the AHAs in managing many common skin problems, such as those associated with ageing and acne.  Since that time, further research and clinical experience has confirmed the advantages for using AHAs for improving the condition of the skin.

Glycolic acid is thought to be the most effective AHA as it has the smallest molecular structure of any AHA and can therefore penetrate the surface of the skin.  It is glycolic acid which is now acceptted as being the leading AHA for use in cosmetic products.

Why is Glycolic Acid beneficial for the skin?

Many skin problems are associated with “hyperkeratinisation”, which is the accumulation of excess dead cells on the surface of the skin.  This in turn can contribute to the dull, course, rough, blotchy and dry appearance of ageing skin.

Glycolic acid helps to loosen the bonds between excess dead cells accumulating on the surface of the skin.  The loosening of the surface skin cells leads to a continuing microscopic exfoliation, reduction of hyperkeratinisation and ongoing improvement in the appearance of the skin.  Acne is associated with hyperkeratinisation around the hair follicles causing blockage of oil glands.  Reducing hyperkeratinisation helps to unblock pores and improve the appearance of acne-prone skin.

Glycolic acid is available in concentrated strength exfoliator solutions for use by skin care professionals and in lower concentrations for daily application at home.  With the use of glycolic acid products at home the skin will feel softer and smoother within a few weeks.  A more rapid improvement in the appearance of the skin is obtained by the combination of professional treatments with glycolic acid in the salon and daily application of glycolic acid products at home.  50% of the improvement in skin appearance from the glycolic acid programme results from the use of the products at home.

Glycolic acid products are effective on areas of the body where there is the appearance of skin ageing, excessive dryness, ingrown hairs or rough cuticles.  These areas are most commonly the face, neck, decolletage, arms, back of hands and legs.

Renaissance are happy to provide a complimentary skincare consultation if you have any specific concerns about your skin or about our Glycolic Acid Facial Peels.